LADAKH:
Ladakh; " the land of high passes" lies in the eastern half of Jammu and Kashmir State in the far north of India. Covering an area of about 60,000sq km and ranging in elevation from 2600m to 7670m,it the largest and highest district of India. Ladakh is sandwiched between two vast mountain systems the Himalaya to the south and the Karakoram to the north.
Ladakh is known for its remote mountain beauty and budhhist culture. Being strongly influenced by the Tibetan culture it is also known as Little Tibet. Set deep in the Indian Himalayas on the western edge of the Tibetan plateau, Ladakh, or 'Little Tibet', is one of the highest and driest inhabited places on earth.
The feature of Ladakhi people, their clothes, and dialects are similar to Tibet and Mongoloid. Most of the people in Ladakh are Tibetan Buddhists and the majority of the remainders are Shia Muslims. The Indian Government has encouraged tourism in Ladakh from 1974.
Leh: The capital of Ladakh is situated at a height of 3505 meters; lies nestled among low hills on the north side of the Indus valley, between the Stok mountains to the south and the Ladakh range to the north. It lies in the eastern part of the Jammu Kashmir and is watered by Zanskar river. It has been the resting place for most of the travelers. Leh is a beautiful destination with so many attractions and is center of Tibeto Buddhist Culture for ages. Its colorful Gompas have attracted the devout Buddhists from all over the globe.
Geography:
Ladakh can be divided up into several geographical regions; Central Ladakh and Nubra. Central Ladakh's heartland is the central Indus valley. Nubra is the region of deep valleys and high mountains. To the north of the Ladakh range, encompasses the Nubra and Shyok river valleys and the eastern end of the Karakoram Mountains.
Ladakh is the young land formed only a few million years ago by the buckling and folding of the earth's crust as the Indian sub continent pushed with irresistible force against the immovable mass of Asia. Mountain ranges across Ladakh are Great Himalaya, Zanskar, Ladakh and Karakoram. World's largest Glaciers outside the Polar Regions and the large beautiful lake Pangong Tso 150kms long and 4kms wide at the height of 4,000mt, are in Ladakh.
Climate:
A land of freezing winds and burning hot sunlight, Ladakh is a cold desert lying in the rain shadow of the Great Himalayas and other smaller ranges. Little rain and snow reaches this dry area, where natural forces have created a fantastic landscape. It is said that only in Ladakh can a man sitting in the sun with his feet in the shade suffer from sunstroke and frostbite at the same time!
People: The 160,000 strong population of Ladakh is a result of the blending of many different races, in particular the Tibetans and Dards.
The Mons, nomads of Aryans stock, is usually professional entertainers, often musician. Dards are found along Indus valley, many converted to Islam. Most of them are Tibetan Buddhists from the bulk of the population in the Central and Eastern Ladakh, though they have assumed the Ladakhi identity over generations; Baltis with Central Asian Saka origins,mostly live in Kargil.
Religion:
Ladakh is one of the few places where you can see this branch of Mahayana Buddhism, sometimes also known as Lamaism. Buddhism has permeated Ladakhi culture since 7th century A.D. Now many of them have been converted to Islam. With an array of deities, beliefs, rituals and symbols it's incredibly but to most of the Ladakhis, who don't concern themselves too much with these difficulties, it becomes practical and down to earth philosophy which emphasis one thing compassion.
Lamas, Islam and Christianity are the main religion of the Ladakhian people.
History:
Neolithic rock carvings have been found in many parts of Ladakh from Zanksar to Nubra, showing that he area has been inhabited from the earliest of times. Tribal herdsmen from the west and east slowly settled in Ladakh over the centuries.
The Aryan Dards, who came to Ladakh from Kashmir and Northern Pakistan, preserve their unique culture in the Dhahanu area, while the Rupshu region is largely populated by Tibetan herdsmen whose semi nomadic way of life has changed little in the intervening centuries. Other traces also trickled into the region, notably from central Asia and Baltistan.
Emergence of the nation:
The region of Ladakh once formed part of the erstwhile Kingdom of Ladakh and for nearly 900 years from the middle of the 10th century existed as an independent kingdom. Its political fortunes ebbed and flowed over the centuries, and the kingdom was at its best in the early 17th century under the famous king Sengge Namgyal, whose rule extended across Spiti and western Tibet up to the Mayumla beyond the sacred site of Mount Kailash and Lake mansarovar.
Kashmir,Tibet and China were all keen to increase their territory and it seems likely that they all invaded at one time or another. Eventually Tibet won the struggle but only held a loose claim on the area.
The early colonozers of the Ladakh were the Indo Aryans mons from across the Himalayan range who were believed to have carried north Indian buddhism Ladakh. The Darads were from the extreme western Himalayas who were credited for the introduction of farming and the Tibetians with the tradition of herding.
During 17th century Ladakh is recognized as the best trade route between the Punjab and Central Asia. Being along route for merchants and pilgrims, they either travelled on foot or on the horseback. Leh was the half way house and developed into a bustling entreport, it bazaars thronged with merchants from far countries. Also known famous for the trade of pashmina shawl, known the entire world for its softness and warmth. Finally this union was disturbed by the partition of India, Baltistan becoming part of Pakistan, while Ladakh remained in India as part of the State of Jammu and Kashmir.
History of Leh:
Leh become the regional capital of Ladakh during the rule of king Namgyal and the town blossomes into one of the busiest markets on the Silk Route.
ADMINISTRATIVE OF LADAKH:
Leh and Kargil are the two administrative districts of Ladakh. Leh is the main town. Although geographically and ethnologically people are Lamaist Buddhist are from Tibet.
Kashmiri Muslims also invaded periodically thus annexed to Kashmir.
Sources:
Main source of water in this desert is the winter snowfall. Which feeds the glaciers whose melt water carried down by streams, irrigates the fields in summer. For the others snow on the peaks is only the source of water.
Gates opened for tourists:
In 1974 Indian Government decided to open Ladakh for the forein tourists. Tourists visit Ladakh via Srinagar road, Himachal Pradesh or Kashmir.
During July and August tourists stroll shoulder to shoulder down its main street,most of whose old style outfitters and provision stores have been squeezed out by Kashmiri handicrafts shops, art emporiums and Tibetian restaurants.
Places to visit:
1. West of Leh:
Spituk: Spituk is the first that is the oldest Gelukpa monastery to be established in Ladakh during 15th century. It was the prediction of Rinchen Zangpo; that this gompa would set an example to the other monasteries in the land. As it's situated on the small hill there are good views over the Indus valley. It is interesting to note that the Delgupta monks created the precedent of building monasteries on hilltops, rather than on valley floors. This follows the Tibetian notion that the higher the monastery sites, the closer it is to the Gods.
The Spituk festival is held every year from the 17th to the 19th day of the 11th month. Sacred dances associated with the festivals of Gustor are held. The Monastery houses a collection of ancient masks, antique arms, icons and numerous thankas. Higher up the hill is the Mahakal Temple, containing the shrine of Vajrabhairava. This terrifying face is unveiled only at the annual festival in January.
Phyang: King Tashi Namgyal founded Phyang in 16th century. The king had invited the Digungpa order (branch of the Kagyupa order) to establish for a Lama. A prayer pole marks the place from which one can see the monastery and signifies that, from this point on, criminals escape punishment.
Khaltse: It is also known as the baby trek, which is carried out all around the year. It is convenient for easy hikers as well as for sight seeing group.
Alchi: The Choskor or the religious enclave is one of the most important cultural sites in Ladakh. A large temple complex built in 11th century is regarded as the most important Buddhists center and the jewel of monastic skill lies at Alchi. There are five shrines in the Choskor complex which has some splendid wall painted wooden flags, a reminder perhaps of the presence in ancient times of lakes in the desert. Also unlike other gompas, it is hidden down by the river rather than in the more usual elevated position.
Lekir: This impressive monastery dates back to the 12th century but the original structure was destroyed by the fire so the buildings you see today are about 200 years old. This is the monastery, which has clay Budhha statues. During the reign of Lachen Gyalpo this monastery was built, he installed 600 monks here, headed by Lhawang Chosie(C 1088). The Gompa was invested with a collection of fine images, thankas and murals to vie with those at Alchi.
2. South east of Leh:
Shey: Shey Palace was the old capital and home of the kings of Ladakh before the new capital became establishment in Leh. This oldest palace of Ladakh sits in a strategic position on the spur jutting out into the Indus valley, which was built by the first king of Ladakh in 9th century, now days it is in a ruined condition. The main temple contains a large Buddha statue sculptured by Nepalese craftsmen. In the courtyard there's an impressive and unique Buddha with copper and gold gilded topped stupa best viewed from above. The son of king Singey Namgyal builds this temple 16th century for the funeral memory of his father.
Thiksey: Thiksey Monastery is an impressive sight situated on the top of a craggy hill while the rest of the complex sprawls down beneath it. This is the oldest monastery of Gelukpa school in Ladakh which is build by the great Lama Paldan Shesrap in 14th century now in these days 80 monks are residing HH Khanpo Ringpoche incumbents this monastery.
Hemis Monastry: The great mahasiddha Sthaksang Raspa along with great ancestor Singey Namgyal built this monastery in 16th century. This monastery is the biggest and richest monastery of Ladakh. Presently 200 monks are residing this monastery and they practice in Drukpa School.
Stok: The king of Ladakh built the Stock palace in 1835 by the king of Ladakh, where we could see a great collection of ancient royal ornaments,thankas and old statues. The monatery is situated at the foot of the stok mountains midway between Hemis and the Stok.
The Matho: Lama Tumgpa Dorje built this monastery in 13th century. This is the only monastery of Saskyapa School in Ladakh. The monks are practising Saskyapa order. The Matho represent the smaller but much older Saskya pa monastic sects. Matho gompa is famous for its festival of the oracles, which is held early in the year, usually in the first half of March. The founder of this monastery invited the famous two oracles from Tibet.
Sankar Monastry: Sankar monastery was built in 1845. The monastery is surrounded by the typical houses of Ladakh and barley fields. It is the branch of monastery of Spituk. The H.H Bakula Rinpoche incumbents this monastery. Approximately 40 monks reside in this monastery.
Kargil: is one of the ideal base stations for trekking, mountaineering, camping, river rafting, and the shorter excursions to Mulbet whose attraction is a 9m high rock sculpture of future Budhha. Famous for its bazaar, views of mountain range, and the town.
Zangskar: Zanskar is land of peace, virtually untouched by the modern world; it has been isolated for centuries by a ring of high peaks. The lowest pass is the Pensi La (4418m). Although immobilized in the winter, except for a short period see The Chadar trek (link to the Winter trek). It is another charm of Ladakh, which offers stunning treks, rafting, jeep or motorbike tour and mountain climbing during summer. Glaciers of Nun Kun, the famous peak of 7142m are another attraction of Zangksar. Padum, the region's "capital" has a few facilities; accommodations are in comfortable. Visiting different villages being with them in their locally run guesthouses could experience their culture. The Zangskari people are independent and proud and by their geographical situation quite separate from the rest of Ladakh, with their own royal family the local king of padum and zangla.
Nubra valley: The Nubra valley means Ldumra (the valley of flowers), situated in the north of Leh. The average altitude of the valley is about 10,000ft. above the sea level. The world's highest motor able road of 5606m and Bactarian Camels (shaggy double hump Camel), camel safari are the attraction of the Nubra valley. This Tour can be organized for 3 days 2 nights. Accommodation can be camp or family guesthouses. The region of Nubra is acessible all year round with the road over Khardong La of 5610mts open even in winter. The specticular view of Karakuram range & famous highest peak Saser kagri 7678mts and the Siachen glacier 70km long. Surprisingly Nubra valley lower altitude creates fertile villages with an impressive abundance of crops & fruits. The friendly monk live in beautiful Gompas perched in rocky mountainsides help makes this a timeless place.
Lamayuru: Lamayuru is the oldest monastery and was founded in the 11th century and belongs to the Tibetian Kagyupa sect. The monastery is perched on a crag overlooking the Indus. The present monastery dating from the 16th century was partly destroyed in 19th century. Some murals, which mix Indian and Tibetian styles, the 11 headed and 1000 armed Avalokiteswara image along with recently redecorated dukhang can be seen. It is established to preserve snow leopard. It enters beautiful valley of Markha, which is overshadowed by many peaks.
Tak tok: Tak tok means "rock roof" and this interesting little monastery is built around a cave where it is believed Padmasambhava lived and meditated for a while on his journey to Tibet. The cave is now a cool dark temple. This monastery represent smaller but much older nying ma pa monastic sects. Tak-thok, situated at the foot of the Chang-la pass, incorporates one of the many caves in the Himalayas.
Shyok valley: Shyok valley is the place of Shyok river known as the river of death. This river receives water from Nubra and Chanchenmo rivers. During winter the river has to be crossed by raft of inflatted skin.
Tsomoriri Lake: Tsomoriri Lake is situated at the altitude of 4555m.This high altitude lake is situated in the Rupshu region of eastern Ladakh. Tsomoriri lake is surrounded by mountains and is formed by a tributary of the Spiti river. It is the starting point for trekking for Spiti through its traditional route through Parang la (5580m). Around 240kms journey to Tsomoriri Lake passes through Shey, Thiksey, Upshi and many small villages along the Indus river. The hot spring at Chumathang (3965 m) comes after driving for around 100 kms with a hot spring Resort where you can bath in hot spring water, which Ladakhis uses for healing. The "Changpas" nomadic people, has trade relation with Spiti. The area is rich in wildlife including the Kyang (wild ass), red fox, and the rare highly endangered snow leopard. Black necked cranes and geese flock to the lakeside for breeding during the summer months. There are options to drive to Manali via Tsokar and Serchu. Full day walking tour of Tsomoriri Lake includes a visit to Karzok monastery and Nomad Camp above the village. After hours drive you will cross Maya bridge and drive upto Tsomoriri through Puga village through a bumpy road. Puga is known for its sulphur and borax deposits.