Dual peak climbing of Mera peak (6476m) and Island peak (6189m)

Trip Facts
  • Duration 25 Days
  • Destination Nepal
  • Difficulty Level Technical
  • Max Altitude 6476m/6189m
  • Trip Start and End Kathmandu-Kathmandu
  • Best Season Oct-Nov, Apr-Mai
Highlights

Panoramic view of chain of Himalayans: Everest 8848m. Nuptse7879m, Lhotse 8501m, Amadablam 6856m and Thamserku 6608m, Monasteries and Stupas and the Amphulaptsa pass which is one of the challenging pass in the trekking sector in the Himalaya

Dual peak climbing Mera peak (6476m) and Island peak (6189m)

The dual peak climbing program has been designed for the mountain enthusiasts who are seeking adventurous activities in the High Himalayas. It requires both in good physical shape and mentally daring to hiking above the 5000m and attempt the summit of snow-capped mountains. Embarking on the dual ascent of Mera Peak and Island Peak via Hinku Valley and Amphulaptsa Pass represents a tough and challenging journey endeavor.

Mera peak is considered as one of the major and popular trekking peaks in Khumbu region. The Peak itself rises to the south of Everest and dominates the watershed between the heavily wooded valleys of the Hinku and Hongu Drangkas. The ascent of the Mera Peak climbingis technically not hard, however, the heavy snow and the labyrinth of crevasses can make the way longer to the summit. So, it demands enough mountaineering technical experience to scale the peak.
 
In order to approach Mera peakclimbing the trek starts from Kathmandu with a drive up to Jiri and a trek to Lukla at 2800m. This is a good way to begin as it helps in developing physical fitness and well acclimatization. The other way, most of the people take a flight to Lukla and start trek through rhododendron and pine forests. Crossing the Zatra-La pass the trek is very steep but the reward is a view of Cho Oyu, the world's 6th highest mountain and the NumburHimal.
Our base camp can be set up at 5,300m near Mera La on the Hongu side in the moraine below the ice. From here a high camp is set at 5,800m near a rock on the Mera Glacier.

The high camp provides us the view of the glorious panoramicviews of Kanchanjunga, Chamlang, Makalu and Baruntse, Amadablam, Cho Oyu and Kangtega to the west. Everest is seen to the north over the massive unclimbed south face of Lhotse and the Nuptse/Lhotse ridge.

Ascending the Island peak (Imja Tse) 6189m

Island (Imja Tse) peak is common and easy with fascinating peak climbing in Everest region.  Island Peak climbing can be combined with Everest Base Camp, Gokyo Lake with Cholapass trek. The ascent of the peak is technically not hard, however, the heavy snow and the labyrinth of crevasses can make the way longer to the summit. So, it demands enough mountaineering technical experience to scale the peak.

The base camp is probably set up at (5,087m), between Imja Tse and the lateral moraine of the Imja Glacier.
The climbing route is a steep grassy slope and small rocky steps up to 5500m, where we set up our high camp. From here we climb again on rock at first, then cross a glacier, with crevasses, to reach a final steep ascent to the summit. Before arriving to the summit we have little difficulty due to steep climbing. In recent times the snow slopes below the summit has developed some large crevasses making the final ascent to the top difficult. Ropes are fixed for the final summit climb.

 

Itinerary

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  • Accommodation Hotel
  • MealsFree
  • Max Altitude1340m.

Free day, preparation for peak permit

  • Accommodation Hotel
  • MealsB
  • Max Altitude1340m

Kathmandu - Lukla flights have been removed, instead alternate route from Manthali Airport of Ramechhap which is 130km from Kathmandu. To get there you will have to depart from Kathmandu as early as 2 a.m. by shuttle bus. You can travel a day before by reserving a jeep or by Bus paying an extra charge for the vehicle.

  • Accommodation Lodge
  • MealsBLD
  • Max Altitude2600m

After breakfast we start our trek by slopepath goes slowly upward and Passing the some villages we get to Pangkongma, which is also known as pangum.

  • Accommodation Lodge
  • MealsBLD
  • Max Altitude2846m

Short steep climb in a forest of rhododendrons to Pangkongma Pass La (3173m); visit the Pangkongma monastery located on the way and then descend through the ridge to the village of Sibuje. From there, we leave the "east road" to go north, towards the Hinku valley. Night PesangKharka (2850m)

  • Accommodation Lodge
  • MealsBLD
  • Max Altitude2850m
  • Accommodation Lodge
  • MealsBLD
  • Max Altitude3115m

The trail descends the through rock-strewn path leading to a fine vantage point of the Hinku valley where mesmerizing views of the south face of Mera Peak become visible. The trail zigzags through forested areas and then descends steeply into the Hinku valley. After lunch we continue further two to three hours walking through juniper and rhododendron thickets to hemlock and silver fir forests. Finally we reach Kothe, which is our base for tonight.

  • Accommodation Lodge
  • MealsBLD
  • Max Altitude3500m

We follow the rocky riverbed upstreamalongside of the river. Further walking through meadows dotted with dwarf junipers brings us to the village of Tangnag. We are now in a deep valley created by the towering walls of KusumKanguru and the western peak of Mera.

  • Accommodation Lodge
  • MealsBLD
  • Max Altitude4350m

We will be walking in the morning to the top of a ridge south of Tangnak. We walk to as far as possible up to 5000m and should have great views of KusumKanguru, Chamlang and the Mera La. We return to lodge for lunch and in the afternoon there will be a gear check and compulsory abseil training.

  • Accommodation Lodge
  • MealsBLD
  • Max Altitude4350m

Today is short day, the trail gradually ascent to Khare. The afternoon is spent practicing ice axe and crampon techniques on the nearby glacier. We could view south face of Mera peak from Khare

  • Accommodation Lodge
  • MealsBLD
  • Max Altitude4900m.

We ascend the Mera High camp. The high Camp is located on a rocky outcrop at 5,800m and from here you can also see most of tomorrow’s route to the summit of Mera Peak. This afternoon we check once again our mountain gear to be ready for tomorrow morning. We can view stunning sunset from the camp. After sunset, we retire to the warmth of our sleeping bags to rest before the summit attempt

  • Accommodation Lodge
  • MealsBLD
  • Max Altitude5800m

Security day or second attempt atop in case of bad weather / not enough acclimatization) If the first attempt is successful then you can use this day somewhere else to rest in Hinku valley or Chhukung

 

  • Accommodation Tent
  • MealsBLD
  • Max Altitude5800m

Attempting theMera Peak summit and back to Mera la thereafter trek towards Hinku valley
Today we have an early morning start generally around 3am walking in the dark using head torches light to light the way, Of course the temperature freezing so it is essential that you are fully equipped out for these conditions (see kit list)
We will walk in rope together in groups of three to four climbers with a guide or Sherpa on each rope. Shortly out of High Camp the route passes through an area with several crevasses then after an hour or so the trail turns to right and starts to steepen as we approach the summit. It normally takes between five and six hours to reach the summit from High Camp whereas the descent back down take two hours and then another two hours down to KongmeDingma. Overnight at Tea house or camping

 

  • Accommodation Lodge
  • MealsBLD
  • Max Altitude4750m

Walking in moraines, we head towards the PanchPokhari lakes. Overnight tea house or camping

 

  • Accommodation Tea house
  • MealsBLD
  • Max Altitude4900m

Today, we ascend the HinkuDrangka valley, surrounded on all sides by the imposing Baruntse (7,220 m), which dominates the northeastern horizon. As we reach the junction with the Mingbo La route, the terrain becomes steeper, characterized by moraines. Our campsite is established at the edge of one of the lakes, situated right at the foot of the Amphulaptsa pass, which we will traverse the following day.

  • Accommodation Tea House or tent
  • MealsBLD
  • Max Altitude5300m

We can imagine that the itinerary seems impossible to cross... Going up a small terraced glacier (size of steps for porters, or even a small fixed rope), you arrive at the pass in 2 to 3 hours. On the other side, delicate passage for around 30 meters (fixed rope as handrail), before finding a path on incredibly slopes. In one hour from the pass, we arrive at the heart of the Amphu cirque. Remaining 3 hours of easy downhill walking to Chukung.

 

  • Accommodation Lodge
  • MealsBLD
  • Max Altitude4780m
  • Accommodation Tent
  • MealsBLD
  • Max Altitude5000m

This is an another acclimatization day or rest day for those who would like to practice skills needed for glacial technique as using ice axe, walking with crampon, rope and use of jumar. This afternoon we check our mountain gear to be ready for tomorrow morning. We can view stunning sunset from the camp. After sunset, we retire to the warmth of our sleeping bags to rest before the summit attempt

 

  • Accommodation tent
  • MealsBLD
  • Max Altitude5000m

Today we have an early morning start normally around 3AM walking in the dark using head torches to light the way, Of course it will be very cold so it is essential that you are fully equipped out for these conditions (see kit list). It is important we reach the summit before noon because in the afternoon the strong winds in the highlands might become a barrier for a successful summit. The climbing route is a steep grassy slope and small rocky steps at 5500m. From here we climb again on rock at first, then cross a glacier, with crevasses, to reach a final steep ascent to the summit. Before arriving to the summit we have little difficulty due to steep climbing. In recent times the snow slopes below the summit has developed some large crevasses making the final ascent to the top difficult. Ropes are fixed for the final summit climb. After taking some snap of photos then descending all the way to Island Peak Base Camp then further to Chhukung where we will celebrate on our successful Island Peak climb.

 

  • Accommodation Lodge
  • MealsBLD
  • Max Altitude4780m

We leave Chhukung and retrace back by the same track all the way to Tengboche

  • Accommodation Lodge
  • MealsBLD
  • Max Altitude3930m

From Tengboche we start our trek towards Namche bazar. We take a descent path in first and then ascend for 1 and half hour and go along the straight path. We reach Namche bazar to have our lunch.

  • Accommodation Lodge
  • MealsBLD
  • Max Altitude3446m

We leave Namche bazar and procede towards Luklafolowing the descent path. We reach Lukla where we stay tonight.

  • Accommodation Lodge
  • MealsBLD
  • Max Altitude2800m

Today, we take our breakfast early in the morning and depart for Kathmandu. Like during the flight to Lukla you can enjoy beautiful views of the mountain in your flight to Kathmandu. Remember, this time it’s the right side of the plane that you have to choose for the best views. TransfertoKathmandu

 

  • Accommodation Hotel
  • MealsBD
  • Max Altitude1340m
  • Accommodation Hotel
  • MealsB
  • Max Altitude1340m

(Departure time from hotel will be fixed as per your flight schedules for the return)

 

  • MealsB
  • Max Altitude1340m

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Included
  • Transfer:  Airport / Hotel pick up & drop by private car/van as per group size.
  • Flight Manthali/Lukla/Manthali
  • Full board meals during the trekking, accommodation in twin sharing Lodges.  (Meals can be choose from Menu) (Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Tea and coffee.) (Except beverage) while mountaineering tent will be used at base camp
  • Altitude tent (each tent for 2 persons)
  • An Experienced & Professional well-trained Mountaineering  English speaking guide, assistant guide (Altitude Sherpa) will be added as per climber request.  
  • Royalty of Mera peak for Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA)
  • 4 nights in hotel International Guest House at Katmandu or Similar category on a twin sharing bed and BB basis.
  • First aid kit will be available during the trek.
  • All personal gears and group equipment will be carried by porter i.e. (1 porter per client, one porter carry max 20 kg).
  • Nepalese Staffs Insurance.
  • Domestic airport taxes.
Excluded
  • Meals in Katmandu (Near about US $ 10 – 15 per day/person)
  • Nepal entry Visa Fee (You can obtain a visa easily upon your arrival at Nepal ’s Airport in Katmandu).
  • International Airfare and Airport Taxes.
  • Any kind of Alcoholic, hot and cold drinks or bar menu.
  • Personal trekking and Mountaineering equipment such as (crampons, Ice axe, ropes & sleeping bags etc), travel and medical insurance & helicopter in case for emergency Rescue evacuation, personal expenses,
  • Any expenses caused by reason beyond our control such as roadblock due to natural climates and accidents and unforeseen events etc.
  • Tips and Gratitude.